Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Every day Mozambique



This is Nely.  I rent a room from her in-laws.  She is has a 2 year old son, takes care of almost everything in the house, and goes to high school at night.  She is grinding beans...a very common chore for Mozambican women. 


Nely's son...looks just like his daddy.  He's mischievous and loves bicycles. 


This is church.  Pastor Danie is teaching.  Andre interprets from English to Portuguese, and there's another person to interpret from Portuguese to Xitswa. 
Tina and I meet weekly. She works as a maid at a hotel to provide for her 5 children and aging parents.  She also really enjoys cooking and is good at it.  We're about to eat fried fish and rice.   Guess what she asked me to bring her from the States.  A blanket.  It cools down to the 50s at night in June and July and Mozambicans get quite cold. 

Tina's oldest, Stelio is about to score a goal.  Their house is to the left of this sand road. 

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A normal rural Mozambican home. small house, storage area above  the ground, shade-giving tree and machamba (field).





My time in America




I cant believe that I've been in the USA almost 8 weeks.  My time is up.  In less than 48 hours I will board a plane taking me to South Africa and a few days later I’ll head to Vilanculos, Mozambique. I feel like my time here has just flown by, especially coming from slow-paced Mozambique. 
 Here are a few words that describe my time in the States:
 Fun. Relational. Memorable. Special. Busy. Variety. Efficiency. English (only). Relaxing. Stressful. Shopping. Many purchases. Food. Cereal. Cinnamon toast crunch. Meat. Milk. Sweets. Mexican. Chinese  Driving. Clean feet. Air conditioning. Cooler weather. Family. Friends. Relationships. Love. Atlanta. Marietta. Washington D.C.  NYC. Encouraging. Hiking. Tennessee. Maryland. Americus. Liberty Church.  Abundance. Blessed.  Hard-working. Tall trees. Wedding. Multicultural. Hectic.  Brazilians. Bolkim Meadows. Legal documents. Visas. Money. Prayer. Songs. Joy. Connection. Peace. Planning. Homeless yet Spirit–filled.  Movies. Abundant internet. Computer (dead & new). Hope. Precious people. Discovery. Community. Fellowship. Belong. Bargain-hunting. Portuguese Bibles. Bacterial infection. Pills. Museums. Spies. American flags. Huge roads. Famous places. Consumerism. Materialism. Headaches. Hot showers.  Friendship. Gifts. Receiving. Stories.

 I want to highlight a few of my favorite moments in the last few months.  Much of what I did was re-connect with family and friends.  It was special to visit each of my siblings where they live and connect with them.  I enjoyed staying with my parents in Georgia and visiting many people from church.


I had a Mozambican Open House, with pictures, food and stories about my time in Mozambique.  I was dressed like a typical Mozambican woman- with a capulana (wrap skirt) and head scarf.   The next picture from the open house has food and drinks including hot tea, tang, water, baji (made from bean and spices, then deep fried) , bolo (fried sweet dough), coco cookies.


I also was able to visit all of my siblings and spend time with them. 

My sister Sonya was helping make baji. 


 This is Felicity and her husband Ian.  They just celebrated their first anniversary yesterday. 

My brother Isaac and I.  It was good to visit him in Tennessee and go hiking together. 



Also I was a bridesmaid in Laura’s wedding. She’s a friend from college and I’m so excited for her as she enters this new part of life.



The last 2 weeks in Washington D.C., where BeLOVE headquarters are I’ve been staying at the
 “Haverkos hotel” and enjoying my time reconnecting with other world racers  
 (friends on the same mission trip in 2009-10). It's been fun and also spiritually significant and encouraging. 


Becky and her son Matt. Becky and her husband Dan opened their house to us and also started 
 BeLOVE Inc., (the organization I'm with). 

Monday, April 16, 2012

The Price is Right...answers..


The Price is Right.
Here are the answers…

1. The Mozambican currency is called meticais.  $1 is equal to how many meticais?
A.      45
B.     7
C.     27
D.    200

2.  I recently bought a new fan.  These were the prices of fans I found.

A.     $8, $12, $15, $20,
B.     $19, $22, $40, $55
C.     $7, $10, $14, $22
D.    $15, $26, $35, $43

3. A gallon of gasoline in Vilanculos costs:

A. $2.70
B. $4.05
C. $5.70
D. $7.05

So if you ask a Mozambican…gas in America is very cheap.

4.  T/F    Prices in Vilanculos are more expensive than most other places in Mozambique.

Very True for two main reasons.  It is a tourist town, with beautiful beaches, snorkeling and diving opportunities.  The second is its about half way between two large cities: Maputo and Beira.  Therefore many common items cost more than big cities because of the cost of transport.

5. The cost of public transport for the shortest distance is:

A.     $0.25
B.     $0.50
C.     $0. 75
D.    $1.00
One thing I like about less developed countries is that change is useful..it doesn’t just take up space in your wallet.

6. You can buy a (glass) bottle of coke (or fanta) for:
A. $0.35
B. $0.55
C. $0.75
D. $o.95

7.  In season, you can buy a mango for :
A. 4 cents
B. 20 cents
C. 50 cents
D.  Why would you buy them?  They’re everywhere.
Actually I would accept any of these answers because they are expensive like B and C (if they’re big) at the beginning and end of mango season.  Like almost all fruit here, once it’s out of season, you can’t get it.

8. To print a simple typed page costs:
A. 15 cents
B. 30 cents
C. 45 cents
D. 55 cents
That’s why I’m printing out a bunch of stuff when I come to America.  Cheaper and better quality printing- here I come.

9.  Which of the following items CAN you normally buy in Vilanculos?
A. fresh milk
B. febreeze
C. coffee beans
D. steak

10.   The cost of a round trip flight from Johannesburg, South Africa to Vilanculos, Mozambique (about 2 hours) is comparable in price to what you would pay for:
A. A two hour flight (round trip) within the USA.
B. A round trip flight from Johannesburg to Atlanta.
A two hour flight in the States is ~ $300 or less, round trip.  I just got a flight to the States for $956 (to Washington DC, ATL was $320 more) - praise the Lord for that!! Its an incredible price…the best price after 2 months of praying, and searching.  Round trip between Johannesburg and Atlanta are usually anywhere from $1100-$2500+, depending on time of year, airline, etc.  There are two airlines that fly between Johannesburg and Vilanculos.  Mozambican airlines (flies daily) typically charges $1200 for a round trip, and Federal air only travels 3 days per week and their round trip is ~$500.    So I take the bus…even though its much slower.

11.  Sales tax is:
A. 7%
B. 10%
C. 17%
D. 25%

12.  T/F  Most people in Vilanculos have fields (called machambas) in which they farm things like peanuts and corn.  
There are actually many local subsistence farmers. Praise the Lord we’ve had rain in March and April, but many people have been suffering due to lack of rain during growing season (November, December, January).

13.  My friend works as a maid at a hotel.  Her monthly salary is:
A. $111 (3000 meticais- 500 mets  above minimum wage)
B. $222
C. $333
D. $444
How I wish I could bring her to America…she would work so hard for minimum wage and have more opportunities there to do well.  Then she’d open her own Mozambican Restaurant…we discussed it today as she was teaching me to cook like a Mozambican.

14.  T/F You can buy a Bible for $35 at the local bookstore.
There is no local bookstore. How nice it would be to have one. Despite Stationary World’s claim to be a livraria (bookstore) when the only books you sell are notebooks and dictionaries you’re not a bookstore…they specialize in stationary and things like pens.  The only place I’ve been told I can buy a bible is the Catholic Church in town.  Generally, people will get bibles from churches. 
There’s actually quite a demand for Bibles.  I’ve been asked for Bibles and wished I had some to give.  One thing I definitely want to do in the States is get Portuguese Bibles to bring and give to people here. I’ve seen a website where they’d be $7 each. If you want to help with that, please leave a comment and let me know.

15.  Around here, pigs are a good investment.  A full grown pig is worth:
A. $50
B. $100
C. $200
D.$300

Saturday, April 14, 2012

Why I don't want to marry a Mozambican



 He assumed I had a husband and children in America.  He didn’t believe me when I told him I’m not married and don’t have any children.   It needed to be repeated about 4 times before it sank in.
 Then he became concerned.  It’s not good to be 26 and not have childrens.  You need to make childrens because this is not fine. He insisted.  30 is too old to have your first child. Who will take care of you when you are old, you know, 55? Here there are no retirement benefits and life expectancy is shorter.  People age faster and die younger due to poor health conditions including malaria, malnutrition, AIDS, poor sanitation, you name it. 
Suddenly he invited me to spend the weekend with him in the middle of nowhere (which I declined)…and then last week he sent me a text message confessing his love for me.   



This is a continuation of the last blog (Polygamy and Mozambican ideas of marriage)…from a different perspective.  It is also a common question, so I’ve decided to address it.
So yes, I can marry a Mozambican but the longer I am in Mozambique the more certain I become that I do not want to marry a Mozambican.  For the record, nor is there anyone else of a different nationality in the picture.
Here are some major cultural differences why I do not want to marry a Mozambican:
1.       Ask any American man about marriage and he would tell you it is a legal agreement (among other things).   If I were to elope in Vegas it would be a legally binding decision even if I decided later that I no longer wanted to be married.  There’s an understood legality and formality about marriage in the States that frankly isn't part of what most people call marriage in Vilanculos.  In fact, I know of only one Mozambican couple that has been formally, legally married, and they own the house where I’m staying.

When I’ve asked why people don’t get married legally the answer sounds like a prenuptial agreement: it makes life easier if the marriage falls apart so you don’t have to worry about money and expenses to separate…you just do it. When talking about this, there seems to be an overall lack of trust.  People also say formally marrying is an expensive and difficult process.

I think the bottom line is not legally marrying is not culturally important. Nor is it really necessary, either.  Girls don’t dream about weddings; probably because they don’t see weddings.   Their parents and grandparents and great-grandparents didn’t legally and formally marry so why should they? 
 To get married I think you live together and call yourselves married.  Pregnancy seems to motivate many to marry although I do know of a young married couple without children.   I have also wondered about more traditional African marriage arrangements like a bride price: you need to give me 3 pigs for my daughter’s hand in marriage but no one has mentioned anything like that. 

For me it’s an interesting topic because people here are living in a rapidly developing place. Developing as in, building new houses and buildings, getting more educated and having access to things like electricity, running water, paved roads, and other things which their forefathers never had but Westerners typically take for granted.  But along with the physical development comes more and more Western ideas about life and some are easily and quickly adopted and others aren’t.  Just because it’s a Western ideal doesn’t necessarily mean it is better than the African way.  That’s something I must constantly be aware of; it’s much harder to love people if you judge them by cultural differences.  Like I would hate to see the communal aspect of African society be replaced by individualistic Western ideals.   But with marriage I am in favor of a public and legal union, as it lines up with the Biblical ideas of marriage and it protects women and children.  And when considering a life-long commitment to someone having a similar cultural background is important.

When I visited Beira (a large city) I asked about marriage there and my Mozambican friend was shocked to hear how most people in Vilanculos are not legally married because in Beira marriages are usually legal and formal.  He has a brother who is saving money to legally marry the mother of his child.   When I was in the capital city of Maputo, I went to the beach and walked on a pier there.  I turned around and saw a married couple, wedding dress and all, with a photographer walking toward the end of the pier.  That day I saw 7 just married couples who came to take pictures on the pier.  So clearly in large cities people are formally married but its just not the case in Vilanculos.

 2.      “Bringing home the bacon”.  In Western society, even though women are encouraged to work, traditionally, the primary responsibility for providing for the needs of a family falls on the man.   There’s a strong push for men to work to provide for their family.  I think one of the best things about America is the work ethic- individuals are expected to work hard to advance—you don’t climb the corporate ladder by sleeping half the day.  Here if you work hard and do well in your job there isn't that same hope or promise of advancing or even keeping your job like in the States.  I know the current economy in the States isn't great, but it’s substantially better than here.  Sure there are some hard workers here, but it is definitely not rewarded or promoted like is in the States and the whole mentality about work is very different.  The States is also very goal-oriented.  Time is money.  Here time is relative and money is rare.

Several men don’t seem to be motivated to work and lack goals in their jobs.  Sure, some work hard as a means of serving/providing for their families but that’s not a cultural value, like it is in America.  I know of men blowing one month’s wages on booze…they’ll be completely drunk for about 4 days.  There’s not a sense of getting new clothes (without holes) for the kids or eating chicken instead of beans. It’s the single moms who are motivated to provide for their families and are the hardest workers I know.  I think it’s more about self advancement for the men.  I just don’t see any self-sacrificing on behalf of the men.  As a general rule I don’t see hard working men who are motivated to serve their families…and I that is a characteristic I would like.  Additionally, it’s quite rare to find people with good money management.   This might sound harsh and so I want to re-iterate that not everyone is this way…it might just be half of the population.  In fact I think people living in town are typically more motivated to work and may have better money management.  But the farther away from town you get, the bigger this problem is. This became particularly evident when talking with farmers who brought employment to areas that previously had no income.

 3.       For me the biggest reason why I wouldn't marry a Mozambican is because women are not considered to be as important as men; they are clearly inferior.  You can go to any household and see this.  The women are constantly serving the men.  Its not just a matter of serving men in the household, its something that affects every facet of life.  Even in how they sit, women will sit on the ground either on estera (mat) or on the sand and men sit in chairs or other objects (like a stump) that elevate them so aren't sitting on the ground with the women.  There’s a very clear hierarchy and men dominate.


Leading women’s bible studies I find it very interesting that it is the men who will interpret from Portuguese to Xitswa.  Women will refuse to interpret it if a man is present even if she is a better interpreter.  Women typically lack the confidence and courage, and even if they don’t, it is only appropriate for them to let the man interpret.


 4.     Education.
 Guess how many women I know that have finished high school.  One.  Yes, one.   When you have a baby at 16, you typically drop out of school, and you may or may not return to school the following year.  Or many don’t have the money to buy uniforms, books and school fees.  
But even finding men who have finished high school is less common than you’d think.  One of the biggest differences between the general public in America and here in Vilanculos is education level. Pastor Jaco’s daughter Maggie goes to Mozambican school.  There are about 50 students in her class but only 25 will usually show up for school.  One of the reasons there is a lack of education is that people don’t see the value in it.  On the other hand, almost everyone finishes high school or gets a GED in America.  Many go on to college and learn some more. 

I was recently talking with a Peace Corps volunteer who teaches in a nearby smaller town.  He was saying that he can’t be very hard on his students for copying each other’s homework because they’re doing what they know and what they’ve been taught.  Here people are not taught to think independently or critically, instead they regurgitate the information they’ve been given because that is what they know and is typically expected.  Reading comprehension is quite poor as well.  With Bible Studies, at this stage, there is no independent thinking or even questions in general…I’m spoon feeding people.


Coming from a society in which education is valued and expected, that is definitely a quality I want in a husband.  I simply could not marry someone I can’t have an intellectual conversation with.  I took a quiz that said I’m attracted to someone’s mind more than appearance or whatever else and I know that’s true.  To think and play with ideas and be challenged is something important to me.   And there aren’t very many Mozambicans with whom I’ve had these kinds of conversations. 


 5.      I’d rather marry an American because I think he’d like me for me rather than for novelty, beauty, or status.  I get so much male attention and it’s actually quite common for a Mozambican to flippantly tell me I’m beautiful/suggest I marry him/ confess his love for me.  I think its because they've never talked with a pair of blues eyes and I’m willing to talk to them and treat them like a decent human being…at which point they become too excited or something. 

   I recently decided not to answer the question if I’m married because once men find out that I am single it seems to expedite the aforementioned comments (assuming they haven’t already been said).  This has limited such comments and benefitted me greatly.  When Mozambican men hit on me, it’s like being offered coffee.  Other people love it and swear by it, but I fail to be mesmerized by its charms and often am repulsed by the mere smell of it.

 6.      I might just be too old to be a good Mozambican wife.  Although no one has told me that- that is the sense I get.  By Mozambican standards, I should have a 10 year old child by now. 

Tina is two years older than me and has a 12 year old son.  Teresa is 5 years older and has a 17, maybe 18 year old son by now.
If I have a child at 32 I’m already old enough to be that poor kid’s grandma. But in America 50+ is a more normative grandparent age.

 7.      Frankly, I know marrying a Westerner would ensure that I would be honored and treated better than marrying a Mozambican.  Even if I were to marry someone with the best intentions, there are things he just wouldn't know; his expectations and understanding of marriage would be so different from my own.  I don’t think a Mozambican would honor me and treat as well as a Southern boy could simply because it’s something he doesn't know and hasn't been taught.

For instance, many Mozambican men will not help carry a heavy load, but let their wives walk with a baby on their back and a heavy load on their head.  At church husbands and wives don’t sit together, men sit with men and women sit with women.  It’s extremely rare to see any affection expressed between husband and wife.  I literally cannot think of a Mozambican example of this. Usually if I see people holding hands its young men.  They aren’t gay, it’s just normal for African men to express friendship in this way.   During the 9 months I’ve been here, I’ve seen male/female hand- holding maybe 5 times; but I’ve seen countless men holding hands. It’s just a difference in culture. 

Polygamy and Mozambican Ideas of Marriage.


About one month ago I asked Julia how many siblings she has.  “51” she said.  I thought there had to be some error in communication.  Either I didn't say it right, or there was some misunderstanding, so I asked again.  Again 51.  But this time she explained that her father is Mr. Xibahalani, a wealthy man in the area who had 8 wives, and her mother used to be one of them but left him some time ago.

There it is again I thought: polygamy.   Having studied anthropology I am compelled to write this blog, and must explain that polygamy is when someone has more than one spouse.  Polygyny occurs when a man is married to more than one wife at the same time and this is usually implied with the term “polygamy”.  However, polygamy also includes polyandry: a woman having more than one husband.  But polyandrous societies are extremely rare and polygynous societies are far more common, thus the term “polygamy” connotes polygyny and I will be using it in that way.

  The more I ask people about their families, the more I hear about polygamy.  Although most people are not polygamists, it is still fairly common, especially among the generation preceding my own.  I don’t know of any polygamists that are close to my age; usually one of my friends will inform me that their father has a few wives.   The first person I met whose father had more than one wife was a single Muslim guy who explained that this generation is more hesitant be polygamous and sexually active in general because of AIDS.  His view of marriage focused on political ties and social status.  He explained that marriage could be beneficial for business, networking, and establishing alliances with people that help you at the end of the day.  None of this American “chick flick mentality” of loving you makes my life complete.

Later, I learned that our next door neighbor’s daughter was the second wife of a lodge owner.  His first wife has her own house somewhere in town, and his second lives in Ngalumwe, a few miles outside of town.  Unlike TLC’s Sister Wives, where all the wives live in the same house, most polygamists here provide a house for each wife.  Clearly to have more than one wife, you need to be well off.  Therefore, having more than one wife is a big indicator of wealth and social status.  Similarly, having a large number of children also indicates prosperity.  Unlike the West, wealth is measured in family size.  Having many children is considered a blessing and an advantage instead of a financial concern.  I will sooner see pigs fly than hear a Mozambican say I can’t afford to have another child. 

Because polygamy is a historical and traditional custom, it has an effect on monogamous marriages as well.   For instance another friend told me about his family; explaining how his dad has been married 5 times; apparently he’d spend a few years with a wife, have some kids and move on to the next wife.   Although technically he’s not a polygamist, because he’s only had one wife at a time, having multiple brothers from other mothers resembles a polygamous rather than monogamous family structure.  Being married 5 times, or leaving your wife for another woman, or having an affair, are more socially acceptable in Mozambique than in the States because of polygamy.  The idea of one man being with one woman long term is not engrained into culture and society to the same extent that it is in the West.  Of course these things happen in the States, but socially it’s a greater offense than it is in Mozambique.

The whole concept of family is far more community oriented as opposed to the nuclear (mom, dad, and kids) family of the USA. It’s more common to find extended family living together, whether grandparents, cousins, nieces, nephews, etc.  For instance, the Mozambican family I am currently living with consists of the mother and father who are in their 40s, their three children, the oldest son is married and has 2 year old, so his wife and son are also part of the household.  Additionally the daughter-in-law’s cousin lives here to help here with taking care of the young child, there is another cousin on the father’s side, and the father’s sister is living here as well. 

When it comes to household chores women are the ones who cook, clean, wash clothes, take care of children and keep the house in order.  To cook and wash clothes typically takes substantially more effort than it does in the States because here you usually cook over a fire and wash clothes by hand.  No microwavable meals or something you just pop into the oven.  No food processor to grind food. No cheap eating out alternatives.  No washing machine or dryer.  Just try to imagine your life like that.  A lot of people don’t have electricity and/or running water either.


Sunday, March 18, 2012

The Price is Right..?



Please take this quiz and feel free to comment with your answers.  I will post the answers in about 10 days.

1. The Mozambican currency is called meticais.  $1 is equal to how many meticais?
       A. 45
       B. 7
       C. 27
       D. 200



2.  I recently bought a new fan.  These were the prices of fans I found.

                  A. $8, $12, $15, $20,
         B.  $19, $22, $40, $55
         C.  $7, $10, $14, $22
         D.  $15, $26, $35, $43

3. A gallon of gasoline in Vilanculos costs:

A. $2.70
B. $4.05
C. $5.70
D. $7.05

4.  T/F    Prices in Vilanculos are more expensive than most other places in Mozambique.

5. The cost of public transport for the shortest distance is:

A.     $0.25
B.     $0.50
C.     $0. 75
D.    $1.00

6. You can buy a (glass) bottle of coke (or fanta) for:
A. $0.35
B. $0.55
C. $0.75
D. $o.95

7.  In season, you can buy a mango for :
A. 4 cents
B. 20 cents
C. 50 cents
D.  Why would you buy them?  They’re everywhere.

8. To print a simple typed page costs:
A. 15 cents
B. 30 cents
C. 45 cents
D. 55 cents

9.  Which of the following items CAN you normally buy in Vilanculos?
A. fresh milk
B. febreeze
C. coffee beans
D. steak

10.   The cost of a round trip flight from Johannesburg, South Africa to Vilanculos, Mozambique (about 2 hours) is comparable in price to what you would pay for:
A. A two hour flight (round trip) within the USA.
B. A round trip flight from Johannesburg to Atlanta.

11.  Sales tax is:
A. 7%
B. 10%
C. 17%
D. 25%

12.  T/F  Most people in Vilanculos have fields in which they farm things like peanuts and corn.

13.  My friend works as a maid at a hotel.  Her monthly salary is:
A. $111
B. $222
C. $333
D. $444

14.  T/F You can buy a Bible for $35 at the local bookstore.

15.  Around here, pigs are a good investment.  A full grown pig is worth:
A. $50
B. $100
C. $200
D.$300

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Livin' in town and lovin' it!


I’ve been living in town for one week now (10 March) and here’s how my life is different.

I’ve gone to the beach four days this past week.  Most of the time the beach is fairly empty, I might see two or three other people.  So I’ve also enjoyed praying there and seeking the Lord there.  But Sunday afternoons is when the locals go the beach and then there will be hundreds
.
I love being close enough to walk to grocery stores, the bank, the bakery, the post office, the park, restaurants, schools, more houses. 

I’ve also enjoyed being in a more densely populated area..its easier to meet new  people who in general, are more educated (more people in town go to high school and/or have graduated from high school, unlike Ngalumwe).

I’ve enjoyed having more electricity-but its not exactly what you’d  call constant…in fact it just went out two minutes ago.  This past week its gone out 4 days during the last week and outages can last anywhere from 30 minutes to a few hours.  It’s so nice to have more electricity than what I’d get from a generator for a few hours each night. I can use my computer longer, things will actually freeze in a freezer, etc.

This was the sunset on my last day in Ngalumwe.  It was overcast most of the day so I pleasantly surprised by this beautiful sunset.   But now, I can see sunrise over the ocean (if I get up early enough).


There are less bugs here, which I’m not sure is necessarily a good thing.  I kinda miss seeing some odd creatures.  Except for mosquitoes-there are actually many more mosquitoes where I live in town than in Ngalumwe so I have requested a box of my mosquito-eating friends: geckos. Typically I'll kill at least 5 mosquitoes daily. I've been working on a quieter form of killing mosquitoes.   
I also miss the noisy song of the frogs in the evenings and seeing a variety of exotic birds like those tiny red and blue finches, king fishers or the birds with tails that are longer than the rest of their bodies.

I like that getting transport is much easier.

The room I am staying in is bigger than the caravan I was in.  I no longer have to deal with rats eating holes in my clothes or pooping on my bed J. It is newer and not falling apart like the caravan and darker...which makes it easier to sleep in however  I can’t sleep past 7am if I try.  It is also theoretically safer as I have a door with a lock now.

 The down side is there is no storage space in my room so I need to purchase a wardrobe, a desk, and shelves.  All of these items will probably have to be custom made.   There is also not good air circulation so buying a fan was one of the first things I did because I don’t enjoy sweating all night.  The bathroom hasn’t been finished so I am using the one in the house which is not as nice as the one I had before.  It’s smaller, a mosquito paradise, and requires bucket showers.

I’ve also switched from living with a South African family to a Mozambican family.  So this will improve my Portuguese as I have to use it every day.  I am also trying to learn Xitswa- the local African language which I find far more challenging than Portuguese.  Fortunately, living with locals helps with that too.  So If I’m speaking English it’s to myself unless I’m on the phone or something.  Eating Mozambican food every day is different too.  I’ve actually had rice every single day since I came back from South Africa on February 23.  Strangely, I’m not as tired of rice as I thought I would be.

There is less sand so my feet are typically a little cleaner…although keeping sand out of my room is still impossible.

My room the day I moved in...it looks a little more homey now.   So I want to  paint it. 


Tonight (13 March) I ate matapa caranguejo for dinner or crab matapa.   Matapa is a traditional Mozambican food that includes matapa leaves, garlic, onions, coconut milk, water, tomatoes, peanuts and crabs (optional).  Looking at it might remind you of Green Eggs and Ham as it’s a mushy green substance usually poured over rice or xima.   But matapa is very tasty and one of my favorite Mozambican foods.  Here’s the recipe, more or less.  First you grind up the matapa leaves with a few cloves of garlic….we’d just use a food processor in the States.  From there let it cook with some oil.   Grate the coconut then add warm water to make coconut milk.  Add finely ground peanuts to the coconut milk and add the coconut milk and crabs.   Let it cook for a while before adding onions and tomatoes…and then let it cook a little more and its done.   Serve with rice or xima.  In South Africa they call xima pap, but in the States people don’t really eat the finely ground corn.  And I can’t think of anything matapa leaves are comparable to.